📑 [Special Column] The Truth Behind “Ammonia-Free” & “Organic” Hair Dyes
📑 [特别专栏] “无氨”与“有机”染发剂背后的真相
Many people believe “Ammonia-Free” means “Damage-Free.” However, from a chemical perspective, the Ethanolamine (MEA) used as a substitute can sometimes be even more taxing on your hair.
很多人认为“无氨”就等于“无损伤”。然而,从化学角度来看,作为替代品使用的乙醇胺 (MEA) 有时对头发的负担反而更大。

1. Volatility vs. Persistence | 挥发性 vs. 残留性
- Ammonia ($NH_3$): It has a strong smell, but it is a volatile gas. It evaporates quickly, leaving very little residue behind after the procedure.氨 (Ammonia): 虽然气味刺鼻,但它是一种挥发性气体。在染发过程中和结束后会迅速挥发,几乎没有残留。
- Ethanolamine (MEA): It is odorless but non-volatile. As a liquid, it clings to the hair and scalp. If not rinsed perfectly, it stays “stuck” and continues to cause chemical stress.乙醇胺 (MEA): 虽然没有气味,但它属于非挥发性液体。它会像胶水一样附着在头发和头皮上,如果冲洗不彻底,会持续造成化学损伤。

2. Internal Hair Damage | 对发质内部的损伤
- Higher Protein Loss: Studies show that MEA can lead to higher protein loss than ammonia because it penetrates deeply and remains active for longer.更高的蛋白质流失: 研究表明,MEA 会比氨导致更多的蛋白质流失,因为它渗透得更深且持续作用时间更长。
- The “Dryness” Trap: While your hair feels smooth right after the salon (thanks to silicones), MEA-dyed hair often becomes drier and more brittle over time compared to ammonia-based dyes.“干燥”陷阱: 染发刚结束时由于硅油成分可能感觉顺滑,但长期来看,使用 MEA 的头发会比使用氨的头发变得更加干枯、易碎。

3. Scalp Sensitivity | 头皮敏感问题
- Prolonged Contact: Because MEA doesn’t evaporate, it maintains contact with your scalp much longer, increasing the risk of itching or contact dermatitis.长时间接触: 由于 MEA 不会挥发,它与头皮接触的时间更长,从而增加了瘙痒或接触性皮炎的风险。
| Feature (特征) | Ammonia (氨) | Ethanolamine / MEA (乙醇胺) |
| Odor (气味) | Strong & Pungent (刺鼻) | Almost Odorless (几乎无味) |
| Residue (残留) | Low / Evaporates (低 / 易挥发) | High / Lingers (高 / 长期残留) |
| Long-term Damage (长期损伤) | Relatively Lower (相对较低) | Potentially Higher (潜在风险更高) |

